I've only used SVN on two sites.... (Well 1 project, 2 sites.) I love using SVN on it though, because it's thousands of files, so FTP'ing would be kind of bleh.
Anyway, I use Filezilla as a client, and usually either Filezilla or Cerberus as a server. (Never setup a FTP server for public use, so I've never bothered to look into FTP servs much.)